Kiyomizudera and Kurama/Kibune Trail

In one day alone the beautiful tree we saw just yesterday has lost more than half its blossoms.  I can't believe how fortunate we are to capture this short-lived beauty!

I snuck out early to see Shimbashi-dori Street, the prettiest street in all Gion

The bridge from my favorite scene in Memoirs of a Geisha

Shirakawa Canal is lined with traditional buildings, willow trees, and of course cherry trees

As too in life, while traveling, we make trade offs. Up early, we had a prime opportunity to see Kyoto's famous temple before the hordes of people, but instead I wanted the kids to experience THE Starbucks. Enjoying the moment, I realized I have never sat at any Starbucks with my family, much less such a special one. It was a peaceful hour, sipping coffee on a tatami mat listening to the calming water from the Zen garden. 

This Starbucks is so relaxing

Walking along Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka, two ancient streets.  For centuries pilgrims have labored up these streets to reach the temple.

Kiyomizudera ("Pure Water Temple") is over 1000 years old. On the cover of my Kyoto guidebook, the temple is one of the most celebrated in Japan.  Its wooden terraces provide sweeping views across Kyoto. Founded in 778, it actually predates the city.  It is best known for its wooden stage jutting out from its main hall; not a single nail is used in the entire structure.

Entrance to Kiyomizudera, one of the most celebrated temples in Japan 

Beautiful temple with sweeping views

So disappointing but unavoidable: the entire structure is covered until March 2020 for roof renovation.

The temple is best known for its wooden stage which juts out from the main hall.  Sadly it is completely covered for renovation.

Passing by the Jishu Shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking, I ask, "Anyone want to try to be lucky in love?" "Too late for me," replies Greg, to which Kate clarifies, "He is already lucky."

If you can successfully walk between the two stones, set 60 feet apart, with your eyes closed, you will be lucky in love. 

"What's the big deal?" asks Kate, wondering how it could possibly be difficult.   Until she goes to try it ..."Just go straight," I encourage her.  "I can't."   People take pictures of her. Congratulations says a man. Unsure if her success is a good thing or a bad thing, Greg wouldn't let Kate buy any of the love charms. 

Walking, eyes closed, between the love stones.  "Just go straight," encouraging the obvious

Almost there!

After taking in the view, we head down into the valley below to Otowa Waterfall - which gives the name to the temple. Its waters are divided into 3 streams.  Each stream has a different benefit: longevity, success at school, and a fortunate love life.  Since the line tremendously long, we don't partake in the ritual. 

The line to drink from Otowa Waterfall

Visitors use cups attached to long poles to drink from the falls.  Choose only one of the streams to drink from or you will be considered greedy. 

As crowded as it is, the journey to the ancient temple is all part of the charm and experience of Higashiyama with the narrow lanes lined with traditional wooden buildings and merchant shops selling local crafts and souvenirs

Between Gion and Kiyomizudera is Kenninji Temple with free grounds. With more time, I would have enjoyed a visit inside to see its pristine gardens and famous paintings.

At lunch, as I announce what is next on the agenda, I say, "And then they can stay home," Greg asks, "Am I a they?"  Part joking part serious, he knows the answer; he would never let me wander off alone. So he and I head out on a 30-minute train ride through the surrounding hills of Kyoto - on our way to Kurama. 

Next to the apartment and 1/3 the wait of everywhere else, delicious Raa-men Miyakowe is our go-to for both lunch and dinner

The hiking trail in the woods between Kurama and Kibune is worlds away from the hustle of busy Kyoto.  It takes about 45 minutes to walk up the cement path and stairs to get to Kurama-dera temple. In Chinese lore, which was accepted by the early Japanese, evil flows from the northeast, and thus, when Kyoto was first established, Kurama-dera Temple offered this protection to the capital against these forces of evil.

I love discovering walking trails like this

The main hall of the Kurama-dera temple lies along a steep mountain path

After the main hall you can continue 15 minutes further to the top and head down the mountain on the primitive path to Kibune. It is a tranquil town and shrine along the river. 

After the main hall the path gets a lot more primitive

The tranquil town of Kibune

Entrance to Kibune Shrine, best known for its well-worn staircase lined by distinctive red wooden lanterns 

The lanterns turned on as we were leaving

After our hike, Greg and I went to the train station to trade in our IC cards (to refund our $25 deposit) and shop at DHC, a Japanese cosmetic line.  

Kyoto Tower is the first thing you see when you leave Kyoto Station. 

So that “Kyoto will always remain Kyoto” – rich in historic scenery – there are strict ordinances on the outside appearance of all buildings, like height limits and rooftop or blinking advertisements – particularly in the non-commercial, historic district where buildings are limited to 50 feet tall.  With a few exceptions like the Kyoto Tower (430 feet), no building in Kyoto is allowed to be taller than 150 feet.