Kimono for a Day

Since the kimono shop doesn't open until 9am Greg and I started our day at Starbucks. Not only was it a treat to not have coffee in a can from a vending machine, this particular Starbucks is like none other - even unique to all of Japan!  Located in a historic Japanese townhouse (machiya), it is the first Starbucks to be designed in a traditional tea-house style, complete with 3 tatami-matted rooms.  Retaining its traditional Kyoto townhouse feel, it has Zen Japanese gardens in the front, back and center.  It was a pretty cool experience!

Walking along the beautiful preserved historic streets of the Higashiyama District

The 5-story Yasaka Pagoda is the oldest in Kyoto; those who conquered the city were anxious to display their colors here.

Don't stumble in Ninezaka, "Three Year Slope," or you will have 3 years of bad luck

A Starbucks unlike any other in the world 

Hanging the traditional "noren" door curtain - at 8am they are open for business

One of the tatami-matted rooms on the 2nd floor

One of the 3 Zen gardens

Walking back through Maruyama Park.  There are even more booths now, getting ready for the weekend's sakura illumination show and bonfire

One of the booths were already open so we found breakfast

Next was our excitement for the day - renting a kimono!  As they are really expensive to own and the opportunities to wear them are very rare, donning one for a few hours is among the top things to do for many Kyoto tourists. For us, wandering around Kyoto in a kimono was a fun way of immersing ourselves in the culture and history of the area. The locals, particularly the older ones, were excited to see us dressed up - I think because mostly only Asians do it. 

Conveniently there is a highly rated kimono store next to our apartment (Okamoto - Yasakajinja shop). You start by picking out your kimono, then depending on the package you buy, you choose all the accessories: a belt, a belt decoration, a purse, a kimono slip, and shoes. Then you take your bundle up to the dressing rooms where the ladies dress you.  

Helping us match the different pieces of the kimono outfit

Looking at Kate reminded me of the scene from Pirates of the Caribbean when Elizabeth passes out from the tightness of the dress. As she was telling me hers was too tight, I was sure she was going to faint!  Luckily we were still in the store so they adjusted it. 

The whole process, including hair, took longer than I hoped: one and a half hours!  Jeremy was stranded alone on the men's floor the whole time. You must've been waiting forever - yeah without WiFi too. 

Wearing a kimono around Kyoto is definitely great fun for a day!

I was very surprised to discover how comfortable it is to wear a kimono and how easy it is to move, even in the shoes. The pressure points around the waist and on the lower back are very relaxing. There are several towels and ropes wrapped around us - actually 13 layers!!

Surprisingly comfortable socks and shoes

Although Jeremy's kimono has a much simpler look, it was his shoes that cause him the grief. "I cannot move side to side really fast," he said. Our socks had grippy bottoms - they should really make those for the guys!

I tried to plan activities nearby Gion but the distances, particularly in a kimono, felt much further than I planned. In his kimono shoes, Jeremy moved at a snail's pace. Hungry for lunch, Chris complained, "We have been walking for 1 1/2 hours." "Sorry Chris it would've been 15 min without me," Jeremy acknowledged.

To get to lunch, we walked through Nanzenji Temple, one of the most important Zen temples in all of Japan. Surrounded by a big park, Nanzenji's central temple grounds are open to the public free of charge, but separate fees apply for entering each of the 12 sub temples.  I was particularly interested to see the large brick Roman-style aqueduct that passes through the temple grounds.  Built during the Meiji Period (1868-1912), it is part of a canal system that was constructed to carry water and goods between Kyoto and Lake Biwa.

Suiro-kaku, the large Roman-style aqueduct - not what you expect to see in an Asian country!

Kate, in her red kimono, said: "At least you guys don't clash. And then I pow."  Jeremy responded, "Don't you want to be the pow?"

Kate became an instant celebrity.  Men asked me for permission to take her photo and women stole it. "She looks like a geisha," I overheard a passerby say (which technically isn't true because the dresses are different and she didn't have on the traditional white makeup).

For lunch we went to Hinode Udon, touted with "the best curry udon in town."  

The long line to Hinode Udon took about 45 minutes

Curry beef udon

Shrimp udon

Next we went to Philosopher's Path. It is named after the famous philosopher, Kitaro Nishida, who used to stroll along this path and contemplate over material for new poetry. The walk is beautiful during Sakura season, and known for being pleasant and relaxing. 

Philosopher's Path is stunning during sakura season

Walking along the canal

It is a pretty popular, touristy path

A brief detour from the path is Honen-in temple

Set amongst a wooden hillside with a beautiful raked sand garden, moss gardens and a tranquil pond filled with koi carp, the temple feels like a magical discovery.  Walking between these two mounds of sand, symbolizing water, purifies you in both body and mind.

For dinner we went to Muraji in Gion, and waited for a seat for 45 minutes in their narrow stairway.  Having to wait so long to eat is getting old fast.  Greg was not happy after all that waiting when they wouldn't even sit us together - their small restaurant has only 2 tables for 8 and we had to split up. Kate and I sat together to share our food. I turned my back on my food for a quick second to get a refill of beer from Greg, and when I turned back around, one of my chopsticks was g o n e !  Kate and I could not stop laughing because it literally disappeared and was no where to be found. We laughed even harder when we discovered it had taken a dive into Kate's purse pocket!

Jeremy got sake, poured to overflow in its dish, and Tsukemen - noodles you dip into broth

On our way out the line had quadrupled. I wanted to warn them that the wait wasn't worth it ... it was good but not as good as our other meals. 

By the time we made it home, Kate was pretty excited to get out of her kimono and breathe again!  13 layers to untie and remove!

Underneath the pretty belt

A hidden layer that holds up the skirt of the kimono

The silky robe underneath

Last layers... towels wrapped around her waist and the under garment.  Free.at.last.