Around Tokyo

Chidorigafuchi, the west moat of the Imperial Palace, is one of Tokyo's most beautiful cherry-blossom viewing spots. 

Chidorigafuchi moat

"Are you joking?"  Chris said when I told him we were waiting in this ridiculously long line. "What is it for?"  Although rowing boats under the Sakura blooms is very popular, I was just joking that we were going to wait two hours in that long line to do it. 

You can row boats on the moat

Jeremy was miserable with allergies from the blossoms - exceptionally affected by the Tokyo blooms (probably because of the latter phase of bloom and its resulting pollen).  

Walking along Chidorigafuchi walkway, Jeremy was miserable with allergies  

Rules of the walkway

"No one cares about the shrines," is the response I get when announcing the next stop. I took us unnecessarily out of the way to see Hie Shrine's red torii gates. The nice thing is that they don't draw the crowds like Fushimi Inari - so you can get a cool picture. 

Hie Shrine's red Torii gates

Even though the Imperial Palace is generally closed to the public - because the Emperor and his family live there - I didn't want to miss catching a glimpse of it. Neither did anyone else visiting Tokyo today. The entire area was swarming with policemen and barriers, in response to the exorbitant amount of crowds expected. 

Masses of people descending on the palace

The Nijubashi is the double-arched stone bridge east of the palace.  Completed in 1888, it was the palace's main entrance.  Behind it you can see the palace's Fushimi Yagura tower.

Imerial Palace - Nijubashi and Fushimi Yagura tower

The history of Imperial Japan stretches back to 660 BC and is the oldest continuous hereditary monarchy in the world; the duties as an Emperor are passed down the line to their children.  Presently, and for a good deal of history, the Emperor is "the symbol of the State and of the unity of the people," while the democratically elected parliament leads the government.  Announced recently on December 1, 2017, the emperor is stepping down in 2019, after ruling over 28 years – having to change the law that the Emperor remains crowned until death.

For lunch we headed to Shibuya, the epicenter of Japan's fashion and entertainment trends.

Hachiko statue in Shibuya station's square

"Do you know the story of this dog?" I ask? "Yes everyone does," the kids reply. I'll tell it anyway ...

Everyone meets at the Hachiko statue (Hachi the dog movie with Richard Gere).  In 1924, Professor Hidesaburo Ueno was greeted at the Shibuya Station at the end of every day by his dog Hachiko.  After the professor suddenly died, Hachi continued to come to the station every day for 9 years until his death – and is now not only a symbol of the station but also an example of loyalty and fidelity.

The statue is a popoular meeting spot

You cannot walk around Shibuya without walking through Shibuya Crossing, the impressive pedestrian crossing that handles more than a million people on a busy day (or up to 3,000 people in one crossing).  Locals call it "The Scramble" because when traffic is stopped, pedestrians can cross in any direction including diagonal. 

Shibuya Crossing

Watching people flood through Shibuya Crossing

For lunch we get to try yet another type of Japanese food: gyukatsu. At Gyukatsu Motomura you cook the gyukatsu beef on a hot stone yourself.  There are only 10 seats in the location next to Shibuya Station. Only 4 seats available, of course we can't sit together once again. Not hungry, I let the 4 others eat while I went out to explore. 

Lunch at Gyukatsu Motomura

I didn't make it far - right next door they were serving beer, and they welcomed me in.  

My lunch

The guy next to me struck up a conversation - mostly in Japanese, which is always entertaining. He seemed to be a regular at the restaurant, and all the cooks were rather entertained that he was talking to me. 

The cook kept taking pictures of me and my new friend 

Then they put this plate in front of me. "Very nice taste." Honestly I wasn't sure if they were serious or joking so I politely turned it down. 

"Very nice taste" - they use the chicken claw to flavor the ramen

I asked the nicely dressed man if he was working today. He replied, "Sunday is for drinking too much." They made me laugh and smile so much my cheeks hurt. 

There were a few stores in the area I was curious to visit:  Tokyu Department Store, Mega Donkey (not nearly as crowded as Dotonbori's), Can Do, and Tokyu Hands. At Tokyu Dept. Store we went down to the basement food court. 

"Do people buy it?  Omg why is it so expensive?" Flabbergasted Kate asked. 

One cantelope for $119

Choose a box of beef - both are $324 each

Then we walked over to Takeshita Street in Harajuku, a narrow youth-oriented shopping street filled with interesting little shops that cater to subculture fashions.  We went to try a crepe. 

Display case of crepe options

Our crepes: Chocolate cake with chocolate ice cream - and bananas, custard and ice cream

Crepes on steroids - we get ours from Sweet Box but all the crepe stands look the same. 

Sea of heads on Takeshita Street

After the insane crowds on of Takeshita St., we went to Meiji Shrine ... our last shrine of the trip (I promise!).  I didn't want to miss this one because it is dedicated to the late 19th-century Emperor Meiji who became emperor as the feudal period/samurai class was coming to an end in 1867, restoring the emperor to power.  He is known for opening Japan to the West – westernizing and modernizing it.  One of Japan's most popular shrines, more than 3 million people visit Meiji in the first few days of the New Year alone.  

In a forest-like setting, the Shinto shrine is serene and austere.

These sake barrels are offered every year to show deep respect for the souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken

The 40-foot-high torii gate at the entrance to the 200-acre park is made of 1,500-year-old cypress.

On Sundays you are likely to see  a traditional wedding procession of wealthy Japanese:  the bride in a white kimono and hood and the groom in his formal black robe, walking together under a big red parasol, with Shinto priests leading the way and the rest of the wedding party trailing behind.

Procession of the bride and groom

Here at the shrine we met up with Yo and his girlfriend Jill. We met Yo last year in Vietnam - he befriended us on an overnight cruise. We enjoyed being able to spend time with them. It was especially relaxing to be the follower for a while, have them translate Japanese, and answer the burning questions we've formed all week. 

They took us to Tokyo Metropolitan Building for the free view from its observation deck on the 45th floor. 

The Tokyo Metropolitan Building has two towers, each with an observation deck on the 45th floor

On a clear day you can see Mount Fuji - not today

We went to a pharmacy to buy medicine for Jeremy. Yo did all the translating. He told us with this medicine Jeremy couldn't drink - he doesn't right?  Jeremy was like, uhhhh - trying to decide if relieving his symptoms was worth it. Just from his response everyone started laughing including the pharmacist. 

For dinner we went to Ameyoko Market alongside the Ueno Station train tracks. We continued to expand our tastebuds, trying Yakiniku, the cousin to Korean bbq.  You get to cook your food over the grill on the table. Delicious!  Except maybe not the entrails that both Jeremy and Chris were brave to try - "It's like chewing gum."

Ameyoko Market is a busy market street - a place for bargain brands and foods

Our platter of meats to grill up

A fun dinner with Yo and Jill

At 2am Jeremy came to tell me he was having so much trouble breathing (due to his allergy-induced asthma). A tightening pain in his chest and sounding like a harmonica, "This has never happened to me before."  We both held our panic at bay - googling and wondering what the heck to do if it got any worse!  We tried the apartment's humidifier for a bit and then he was finally able to sleep.